A mini radar. A servo motor swings an ultrasonic sensor from side to side, and the Arduino draws whatever it finds on a little screen.
Versions V1 → V2
V1
Pico radar
Raspberry Pi Pico swinging the sensor, with a retro CRT-style radar drawn in Processing on the PC.
Big screen, so loads of detail
Red blips that clump together and estimate size
Needs the laptop plugged in to see anything
Not a standalone gadget
V2
Mini radar 11 Oct 2026
Shrunk down onto an Uno kit with its own 1.3" OLED screen. The build on this page.
Works on its own, no laptop needed
Kit parts, easy to build step by step
Tiny one-colour screen, so less detail
Only clear for about 40 cm around it
How it works sketch I
The ultrasonic sensor uses echolocation to estimate distances.
The servo is the movement. You tell it an angle and it goes exactly there.
The screen is the map. Angle + distance = a dot on a half circle.
test every part on its own first!
Parts
Arduino Uno (the brain)
USB cable
Breadboard
Servo motor
Wires
Ultrasonic sensor
Screen
Blu-Tack or hot glue
A laptop with Arduino IDE
Step 1
Laptop prep
Install Arduino IDE arduino.cc/en/software
Plug in the Arduino Uno.
Tools → Board → Arduino Uno
Tools → Port → pick the COM port that showed up.
Tools → Manage Libraries → search U8g2 → Install.
TestFile → Examples → 01.Basics → Blink, then upload. The little L light on the board should start blinking.
Step 2
Screen
Power first: Uno 5V → red (+) rail, Uno GND → blue (−) rail. Everything gets power from these 2 rails.
Screen wiring
GND(−) rail
VCC(+) rail
CLKpin 13
MOSIpin 11
RESpin 7
DCpin 8
CSpin 10
TestRun test2.ino. It should show "Hello!", a border and a circle.
Step 3
Distance sensor
Use male-to-female wires so the sensor can move around later on the servo motor.
Sensor wiring
VCC(+) rail
GND(−) rail
Trigpin 5
Echopin 6
TestRun test3.ino. Open Tools → Serial Monitor and set it to 9600 baud (bottom right). Move your hand in front and watch the numbers change.
Step 4
Servo motor
Servo wiring
Black wire(−) rail
Red wire(+) rail
Yellow wirepin 3
TestRun test4.ino. The motor should move back and forth.
Step 5
Sensor + servo
Centre the servo with test5.ino. Then put the plastic arm and sensor together with hot glue or Blu-Tack, attach the servo to something to stop it wobbling, and clear an area of about 40 cm radius.
Step 6
The full radar
Keep the wires like they are. Upload fullv2.ino.
If something's wrong
Check wiring
Change values
— E.entry I
Entry No. 00211 October 2026Subject: Electronics
Colour Mixer
Mix colours on the RGB colour matrix with a joystick. Push down to add blue.
Versions V1 → V1
V1
Joystick mixer 11 Oct 2026
Joystick mixes the colour on the RGB light, push down for blue.
Simple, only 9 wires
Instant feedback, fun to play with
Blue comes from the joystick button, which is only on or off, so it can't fade smoothly
The circuit sketch I
Wiring
RGB wiring
Rpin 3
Gpin 5
Bpin 6
(−)(−) rail
Joystick wiring
GND(−) rail
+5V(+) rail
VRxA1
VRyA2
SWpin 2
Run it
Upload ColourMixer.ino.
— E.entry II
Entry No. 00322 October 2026Subject: Chemistry & build
The Arc Reactor Cell
Turns out if you run electricity through water it splits into hydrogen & oxygen. Found this out today and now I want to build one. Research first, then I design my own cell that looks like Iron Man's arc reactor.
Versions V1 → V3
V1
Pencil-lead test jar 22 Oct 2026
A 9 V battery and two pencil leads in a jar of water and baking soda.
Costs nothing, takes 10 minutes
Shows the 2 : 1 bubbles straight away
Both gases come up in the same jar
Pencil leads crumble after a while
V2
Arc Reactor Cell 22 Oct 2026
Printed arc-reactor housing: steel centre, 10 graphite rods, separator, each gas out its own tube.
Gases stay separate the whole way out
Graphite rods last, and it looks like an arc reactor
Needs printing, sealing and an overnight leak test
More parts to buy
V3
Show mode 22 Oct 2026
Adds a current sensor, power-up light sequence, OLED readout and glowing bubble columns. See the 3D model →
Glow and pulse follow the real current
Looks amazing to people who don't know how it works
More electronics to wire (Pico, INA219, OLED)
Only exists as a 3D model so far
Part oneResearch notes
The apparatus sketch I
2H₂O → 2H₂ + O₂
H₂ side fills up TWICE as fast!!
That's the "2" in 2H₂ actually happening. If you count the bubbles the − side is way busier.
Ratios hydrogen : oxygen
By volumeas gas, same temp
H₂ · 2O₂ · 1
2 : 1
By mass4 g H₂ per 32 g O₂
H₂O₂ · 8 parts
1 : 8
From 1 kg waterwhat comes out
112 g888 g O₂
1 kg
checked it: 2 × 2 g = 4 g vs 32 g → 1 : 8 ✓ yep
Power required Faraday's law
Each H₂ needs 2 electrons to make. A mole of electrons is 96,485 coulombs (that's Faraday's constant, F), so that's how you work out how much power it takes.
Q = n · z · F = 1 × 2 × 96,485 ≈ 193,000 C per mole of H₂
1 amp, 1 hour
3,600 C
≈ 0.019 mol of H₂
Gas collected
0.45 L
of H₂, plus 0.22 L of O₂
Least voltage
1.23 V
but really you need 1.8–2 V
1 kg of H₂
39 kWh
on paper · more like 50–55 kWh for real
The rocket secret why engines run fuel-rich
This is the cool bit. You'd think rockets burn it at the perfect 8 : 1, but they actually use less oxygen on purpose.
Perfect burn
8 : 1
Uses up all the fuel, but the exhaust is all heavy water vapour.
Shuttle RS-25
~6 : 1
The leftover H₂ makes the exhaust lighter so it shoots out faster. About 450 s of specific impulse in space.
→ so electrolysis actually makes MORE oxygen than the rocket even wants!
Part twoDesigning the reactor
The idea
So the plan is an electrolysis cell shaped like an arc reactor. The middle is the − side and makes the hydrogen. The ring of 10 segments around it is the + side and makes the oxygen. Then LEDs behind it light up all the bubbles.
the arc reactor already has a middle + a ring around it. that's literally 2 electrodes!
Front view sketch II
Keeping the gases apart sketch III
Most important part. The separator lets water and current through but keeps the bubbles on their own side. Each gas gets its own tube going into its own cup of water, so I can watch it bubble out and they never meet.
if the H₂ cup bubbles twice as fast as the O₂ cup = it works
Design numbers
Chamber
Ø100 mm
× 30 mm deep ≈ 235 mL of water
Power
5 V USB
through a 5 Ω, 2 W resistor, aiming for about 0.5 A
H₂ at 0.5 A
3.8 mL/min
≈ 0.23 L an hour
O₂ at 0.5 A
1.9 mL/min
always half of the H₂
How much current you actually get depends on how much baking soda goes in. That's what the mixing table is for.
0.5 A ÷ (2 × 96,485) × 24.5 L/mol × 60 ≈ 3.8 mL/min of H₂
Mixing the water ingredient ratios
Plain water barely conducts, so you add a bit of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate). Going for 2% by weight, which is 20 g per litre of distilled water.
Batchwater : baking soda
Pencil-lead test jar100 mL : 2 g (½ tsp)
Reactor fill220 mL : 4.5 g (1 tsp)
Big batch to keep1 L : 20 g (4 tsp)
Each bubbler cup150 mL : none
Start at half strength (1 g per 100 mL) and check the current with the multimeter.
Add a pinch at a time until it says 0.3–0.5 A, then stop.
Stir till it's totally clear before filling, or the leftover bits clog the filter.
1 level tsp of baking soda ≈ 4.5–5 g
At 0.5 A it only uses up about 0.17 g of water an hour, so one fill should last weeks. When it gets low, top up with just distilled water, NOT more soda (the soda doesn't get used up).
Measurements sketch IV
Body
Housing ringØ140 / Ø100 × 30
Front + back discsØ140 × 3 acrylic
Bolts6 × M3 × 40
Water fill220 mL (5 mm gap)
Electrodes
Centre (−)M6 × 40 steel
Ring (+)10 × Ø5 × 40 graphite
In the water25 mm each
SeparatorØ30 × 28 deep
Gas + light
Tubing4 mm ID, 2 × 30 cm
Tube under water2–3 cm
LED strip30 LED/m, 40 cm
Resistor5 Ω, 2 W
Worked out the graphite ring has about 8 times more area in the water than the middle bolt (3,930 mm² vs 471 mm²). The + side slowly wears away, so more area means the rods last way longer.
Print the ring in see-through PETG and put the LED strip behind it at Ø127. Then the whole rim glows like the real arc reactor.
Parts
Housing ring, 3D printed in translucent PETG
2 clear acrylic discs, Ø140 × 3 mm
6 × M3 × 40 bolts + nuts
Silicone sealant or O-rings
M6 × 40 stainless bolt (− side)
10 plain graphite rods, Ø5 × 40 mm (+ side, not copper-coated)
Coffee filter + printed frame (separator)
2 barbed fittings + 60 cm of 4 mm silicone tubing
2 cups of water (bubblers)
40 cm of 30 LED/m NeoPixel strip (12 LEDs) + Pico
5 V USB supply + 5 Ω 2 W resistor
Distilled water + baking soda + a multimeter
Use graphite on the + side, NOT steel. The + side eats away whatever metal is on it, and stainless steel can leak nasty chromium into the water. Same goes for copper and solder, keep them out of the water.
Build steps
DangerNever join the two tubes or let the gases mix. Mixed H₂ + O₂ explodes. No flames or sparks near the cups. Don't block the tubes or try to store the gas. Run it by an open window and unplug it when I walk away.